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Contact & Feedback

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Benitz Service Company is committed to providing superior products and services. We value your feedback and appreciate your participation in these customer satisfaction surveys. We would like to show our gratitude by offering a $10 gift certificate to Mighty Melt Sandwich & Spud Shop upon receiving your completed survey.

Please take a minute and tell us how we did with your new installation or service call and we'll give you $10 at Mighty Melt Sandwich & Spud Shop.

Or if you have any questions about us or our products please contact us here.

Thank you for choosing Benitz Service Company to keep your home comfortable!

Visit Checklist

Here's what you can do to prepare for your service call:

1. Plan enough time - Inspecting the existing equipment, preparing a load calculation and explaining the many advancements in technology will take about 1 1/2 hours, depending on the number of questions you might have.

2. Have your utility bills available - Not only will a new system make your home more enjoyable and comfortable, it could save you a whole bunch of money. Grab your bills and we'll give you an idea of how much you might save.

3. Clear a path - Our comfort specialist will need to see your existing equipment and ductwork. Easy access through closets and attics is critical to designing a new system that will work at its peak.

We'll have some questions for you. Please have this information available when the representative arrives:

  • Which rooms get too hot or cold?

  • Does anyone in your family suffer from asthma or allergies?

  • Does your home get too muggy or too dry at certain times of the year?

  • Is the outdoor unit accessible to children or pets?

  • Is the system noisy?

  • What repairs have been made to the system?

  • Are future energy costs a concern?

Energy Efficiency

The efficiency of air conditioning units is measured by the SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) rating which rates energy use for different types and brands of equipment. SEER ratings are a lot like vehicle miles per gallon efficiency ratings. The higher the rating, the more efficient the unit-and the more money saved in energy costs. The majority of systems installed before 1992 are rated at 10 SEER or below and continue to drop in efficiency with age.

The chart below shows the possible energy savings as compared to an 8 SEER system. When all of the components of your heating and cooling system are properly combined in what is called a "matched system," they work seamlessly together to deliver maximum performance at a minimal costtion, examined air conditioning manufacturers' efficiencies versus the actual efficiencies that resulted after installation and found that 90% of newly installed units exhibited some sort of energy-wasting, comfort-robbing problem.

Other significant air conditioning industry comfort and energy related surveys1 also revealed the following installation problems:

Duct Leakage (93%)

• Poor indoor air quality
• Health and safety concerns
• Drafts and uneven temperature
• May double air conditioning portion of the energy bill

Unit Oversizing (47%)

• Doesn't run enough to wring out moisture
• Air in sunlit & shaded rooms does not mix
• Equipment typically noisier
• Shorter equipment life

Incorrect Refrigerant Charge (54%)

• Increased failure rate
• Reduced moisture removal
• Equipment typically noisier
• Uneven temperature
• Could add as much as 17% to operating costs

Incorrect Air Flow (70%)

• Uneven temperatures
• Poor moisture control
• Noisy grilles and registers
• Could add as much as 10% to operating costs

HVAC Terminology


AC Abbreviation for alternating current, a type of electric current in which the polarity is constantly reversing causing the electron flow to reverse.
ACCA Air Conditioning Contractors of America.
Acoustical Of or pertaining to sound.
AC or DC Abbreviation for equipment capable of operating on alternating or direct current.
ACoil A heat exchanger consisting of two diagonal coils that are joined together in a manner that looks like the letter "A".
AFUE Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. A measure of a gas furnace's efficiency in converting fuel to energy. The higher the rating, the more efficient the unit.
AGA Abbreviation for American Gas Association, Inc.
Air Conditioner Any device that can change the temperature, humidity or general quality of the air.
Air cleaner Any device that removes undesirable particles from moving air.
Air flow Volume The amount of air the system circulates through your home, expressed in cubic feet per minute (cfm). Proper airflow depends on the outdoor unit, the indoor unit, the ductwork and even whether the filters are clean.
Air handler An air moving and/or mixing unit. Residential air handlers include a blower, a coil, an expansion device, a heater rack and a filter. Heaters for air handlers are sold as accessories. In some models heaters are factory installed.
ARI Air Conditioning & Refrigeration Institute.
ASHRAE American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Engineers.
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BTU British thermal unit. The amount of heat required to raise or lower the temperature of one pound of water one degree Fahrenheit. The heat extracted from your home by an air conditioner is measured in BTUs.
BTUh British thermal units per hour. 12,000 BTUh equals one ton of cooling.
Burner A device that uses fuel to support combustion.
Burner Orifice The opening through which gas flows to the air/gas mixing chamber of the burner.
Burner (sealed combustion) A burner that obtains all air for combustion from outside the heated space.
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Capacity The output or producing ability of cooling or heating systems. Cooling and heating capacities are referred to in British thermal units (BTUs) per hour.
Celsius The metric temperature scale in which water freezes at zero degrees and boils at 100 degrees, designated by the symbol "C". To convert to Fahrenheit, multiply a Celsius temperature by 9, divide by 5 and add 32 (25 x 9 equals 225, divided by 5 equals 45, plus 32 equals 77 degrees Fahrenheit).
CFM Abbreviation for cubic feet per minute, a standard measurement of airflow. A typical system requires 400 cfm per ton of air conditioning.
Charge Adding refrigerant to a system. This is refrigerant contained in a sealed system or in the sensing bulb to a thermostatic expansion valve.
ComfortR™ Coil or Evaporator Coil An American Standard Comfort Coil is the other, less visible half of your air conditioning system and is located inside your home in the indoor unit. It's a tubing coil in which a volatile liquid evaporates and absorbs heat. This is where the refrigerant evaporates as it absorbs heat from the indoor air that passes over the coil. It serves as a "heat exchanger," moving heat into your home in the winter and away from your home in the summer.
ComfortR™ Airflow System An exclusive feature of a high efficiency home comfort system from American Standard. This method of ramping airflow gives you greater humidity control when cooling and provides warmer air during heating start up.
Compressor This is the heart of an air conditioning or heat pump system. It is part of the outdoor unit and pumps refrigerant to meet the cooling requirements of the system.
Condensate Vapor that liquefies due to the lowering of its temperature to the saturation point.
Condenser coil (or outdoor coil) In an air conditioner, the coil dissipates heat from the refrigerant, changing the refrigerant from vapor to liquid. In a heat pump system, the coil absorbs heat from the outdoors.
Condenser Fan The fan that circulates air over the aircooled condenser.
Contactor A switch that can repeatedly cycle, making and breaking an electrical circuit. When sufficient current flows through the Acoil built into the contactor, the resulting magnetic field causes the contacts to be pulled in or closed.
Crankcase Heater This is the electric resistance heater installed on compressor crankcases to boil off liquid refrigerant that may have combined with compressor oil. Many newer cooling systems do not require crankcase heaters, however heat pumps do require crankcase heaters.
CSA Canadian Standards Association.
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DC Direct current electricity. This type of electricity (as opposed to Alternating Current, or AC) flows in one direction only, without reversing polarity.
Damper Found in ductwork, this movable plate opens and closes to control airflow. Dampers can be used to balance airflow in a duct system. They are also used in zoning to regulate airflow to certain rooms.
Defrost To melt frost; as in from an air conditioner or heat pump coil.
Degreeday A computation that gauges the amount of heating or cooling needed for a building. A degreeday is equal to 65 degrees Fahrenheit minus the mean outdoor temperature.
Dehumidifier An air cooler that removes moisture from the air.
Diffuser A grille over an air supply duct having vanes to distribute the discharging air in a specific pattern or direction.
DOE Department of Energy
Downflow Furnace A furnace that intakes air at its top and discharges air at its bottom.
Drain Pan Also referred to as a condensate pan. This is a pan used to catch and collect condensate (in residential systems vapor is liquefied on the indoor coil, collected in the drain pan and removed through a drain line).
Dry Bulb Temperature Heat intensity, measured by a dry bulb thermometer.
Dry Bulb Thermometer An instrument that measures air temperature independently of humidity.
Ductwork A pipe or conduit through which air is delivered. Ducts are typically made of metal, fiberboard or a flexible material. In a home comfort system, the size and application of ductwork is critical to performance and is as important as the equipment.
Duration Compressor The American Standard Duration Compressor was the world's first successful heat pump compressor. To this day it's the only compressor American Standard uses in its residential systems. It's well known for its superior durability, low noise levels and high efficiency.
DX Direct expansion. A system in which heat is transferred by the direct expansion of refrigerant.
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EER Energy Efficiency Ratio (steady state).
ENERGY STAR® Trane high efficiency systems carry the ENERGY STAR label which is the result of Trane's partnership with the U.S. Department of Energy and Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). ENERGY STAR products are more energy efficient and help reduce our whole earth's pollution problems. Choosing a Trane ENERGY STAR Comfort System assures homeowners of lower energy bills and improved indoor air quality for their home.
EPA Environmental Protection Agency.
Expansion Valve A refrigerantmetering valve with a pressure or temperature controlled orifice.
Evaporator Coil (or Indoor Coil) The other half of an air conditioning system, located inside your home in the indoor unit. This is a tubing coil in which a volatile liquid evaporates and absorbs heat. This is where the refrigerant evaporates as it absorbs heat from the indoor air that passes over the coil.
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Fahrenheit The temperature scale on which water freezes at 32 degrees and boils at 212 degrees; designated by the letter F. To convert Fahrenheit to Celsius, subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit number, multiply by 5 and divide by 9 (77 32 equals 45, times 5 equals 225, divided by 9 equals 25 degrees Celsius).
Fan Any device that creates air currents.
Filter Any device that removes impurities through a straining process.
Flue Any vent or passageway that carries the products of combustion from a furnace.
Furnace That part of the heating system in which the combustion of fossil fuel and transfer of heat occurs.
Fuse A metal strip in an electrical circuit that melts and breaks the circuit when excessive current flows through it. The fuse is designed to break in order to save more expensive electrical components.
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GAMA Gas Appliance Manufacturers Association.
Gas Furnace Heat Exchanger Located in the furnace, the heat exchanger transfers heat to the surrounding air, which is then pumped throughout your home.
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Heat Exchanger An area, box or coil where heat flows from the warmer to the colder fluid or surface.
Heat Gain Heat added to the conditioned space by infiltration, solar radiation, occupant respiration and lighting.
Heating Coil Any coil that serves as a heat source.
Heat Loss The rate of heat transfer from a heated space to the outdoors.
Heat Pump A mechanicalcompression cycle refrigeration system that can be reversed to either heat or cool the controlled space.
Heat Transfer The movement of heat energy from one point to another. The means for such movement are conduction, convection, and radiation.
Hertz In alternating current (AC electricity), the number of cycles per second.
HSPF Heating Seasonal Performance Factor. This rating is used in measuring the heating efficiency of a heat pump. The higher the number, the more efficient the heat pump system.
Humidifier A machine that adds water vapor to the air to increase humidity.
Humidistat A humiditysensing control that cycles the humidifier on and off.
Humidity The presence of water vapor in the air.
Humidity, Absolute Weight of water vapor per cubic foot of dry air, expressed as grains of moisture per cubic foot.
Humidity, Relative The amount of moisture in the air expressed as a percentage of the maximum amount that the air is capable of holding at a specific temperature.
HVAC Heating, Ventilating and Air Conditioning.
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Ignition The lighting of a fuel to make it burn.
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Kilowatt (kW) 1,000 watts.
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Latent Heat A type of heat, which when added to or taken from a substance, does not change the temperature of the substance. Instead, the heat energy enables the substance to change its state.
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Media The material in a filter that traps and holds the impurities.
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NEC National Energy Council / National Electric Code.
NEMA National Electrical Manufacturing Association
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OEM Original equipment manufacturer.
Orifice An opening or hole; an inlet or outlet.
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Package Unit A heating and cooling system contained in one outdoor unit. A package unit is typically installed beside, on the roof, or sometimes in the attic of a home.
PSI Pounds per square inch.
PSIA Pounds per square inch, absolute.
PSIG Pounds per square inch gauge.
PVC Polyvinyl chloride; a type of plastic.
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Reciprocating Compressor A compressor whose piston or pistons move back and forth in the cylinders.
Refrigerant  chemical that produces a refrigerating effect while expanding and vaporizing. Most residential air conditioning systems contain R22 refrigerant. R22 is regulated under the Montreal Protocol and in the United States by the Environmental Protection Agency. R22 is scheduled to be in production until the year 2020. It's used in approximately 95 percent of air conditioning equipment manufactured in the U.S. today.
Refrigerant Charge The required amount of refrigerant in a system.
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SEER Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. A measure of cooling efficiency for air conditioners and heat pumps. The higher the SEER, the more energy efficient the unit. The U.S. Government's minimum SEER rating is 10.
SelfContained System A refrigerating system that can be moved without disconnecting any refrigerant lines; also know as a package unit.
Sensible Heat That heat which, when added to or taken away from a substance, causes a rise or fall in temperature.
Sensor Any device that reacts to a change in the conditions being measured, permitting the condition to be controlled.
Setpoint The temperature or pressure at which a controller is set with the expectation that this will be a nominal value depending on the range of the controller.
Spine Fin™ Coil All aluminum outdoor coil that features the patented Spine Fin™ design. It provides greater heat exchanging capabilities (meaning higher efficiencies) and is more resistant to corrosion than traditional copper/aluminum
Split System The combination of an outdoor unit (air conditioner or heat pump) with an indoor unit (furnace or air handler). Split systems must be matched for optimum efficiency.
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Thermostatic Expansion Valve A refrigerant metering device that maintains a constant evaporator temperature by monitoring suction vapor superheat. Also called a thermal expansion valve.
Thermostat A series of sensors and relays that monitor and control the functions of a heating and cooling system.
Ton A unit of measurement used for determining cooling capacity. One ton is the equivalent of 12,000 BTUs per hour.
Twostage heating / Twostage cooling Twostage heating and cooling is considered to be more efficient, because it operates at low speed most of the time. However, on days when more heating or air conditioning is required, it switches to the next stage for maximum comfort.
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UFactor The factor representing resistance to heat flow of various building materials.
UL Underwriters Laboratories.
Upflow Furnace A furnace in which air is drawn in through the sides or bottom and discharged out the top.
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Vacuum A pressure below atmospheric pressure. A perfect vacuum is 30 inches Mercury (periodic symbol "Hg").
Variablespeed motor(s) The fan motor inside Trane's variablespeed air handlers is designed to vary its speed based on your home's heating and air conditioning requirements. Working in conjunction with your thermostat, it keeps the appropriatetemperature air (e.g. warm air on cold days) circulating throughout your home, reducing temperature variances in your home. It also provides greater air circulation and filtration, better temperature distribution, humidity control, higher efficiency, and quiet performance.
Volt The unit of measure used to describe a difference in electrical potential. Abbreviated by the symbol "v".
Voltage The force that pushes electrical current along wires and cables.
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Watt The unit of electrical power equal to the flow of one amp at a potential difference of one volt.
Wet Bulb Thermometer A thermometer whose bulb is covered with a piece of watersoaked cloth. The lowering of temperature that results from the evaporation of water around the bulb indicates the air's relative humidity.
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Zoning System A method of dividing a home into different comfort zones so each zone can be independently controlled depending on use and need; an air conditioning system capable of maintaining varying conditions for various rooms or zones.


1. How are the sizing capacities of heating and cooling systems measured?
2. What size HVAC system should I have?
3. How is the efficiency of heating and cooling equipment measured?
4. How can I increase the efficiency and life of my home's heating and cooling systems?
5. Is a system with more capacity better?
6. How long should my system run in a cycle?
7. Should I try to keep my system from running too much?
8. What air temperature should my air conditioner produce?
9. What temperature should I set my thermostat?
10. What are the advantages of a programmable thermostat?
11. How often should I replace my filters?
12. What maintenance should I do on my air conditioner?
13. How often should I have maintenance done on my air conditioner?
14. Is there anything I should check prior to calling for service?
15. How much does a new replacement system cost?
16. Are there any air conditioning systems that are safe for the environment?
17. Do electronic air cleaners really work?
18. Should I close the registers and doors to areas of the home that I do not use on a regular basis?
19. Why are humidifiers used more in heating than cooling?
20. During the heating season, my heat pump delivers warm air, but not hot air, and will operate for long periods of time. Is that normal?
21. During the heating season, my heat pump makes a "whooshing" sound and I feel cool air coming from the supply registers. Is that normal?
22. How do I know if my A/C unit is big enough?


1. How are the sizing capacities of heating and cooling systems measured?
The heating and cooling systems are sized according to their tonnage. One (1) ton equals 12,000 BTU/H. Residential systems can range from 1 to 5 tons. TOP

2. What size HVAC system should I have?
Contrary to popular belief, there is no rule of thumb for sizing a system to a home. Depending upon the construction of your home, one (1) ton of air conditioning can cool anywhere from 300 to 800 square feet of home. The only way to ensure that the size of the system you purchase will be large enough to cool your home, but small enough to dehumidify it,  is to have your home's individual heating and cooling needs evaluated by a professional.  Our Comfort Consultant will conduct a heating/cooling load calculation that is based off of your home, insulatation factors, windows, direction the home faces, where the ductwork is located, how often you entertain large groups of people, as well as many other factors.  Our Manual J load calculation software is approved and endorsed by the ACCA.  TOP

3. How is the efficiency of heating and cooling equipment measured?
The S.E.E.R. (seasonal energy efficiency ratio) is the amount of cooling your system will deliver per dollar spent on electricity. For example, a 3-ton unit may have a S.E.E.R. efficiency rating of 13, 14, or 15. The higher the S.E.E.R. the more efficient the system will be.  It's kind of like miles per gallon for a car. The S.E.E.R. rating of any given unit can range anywhere from 13 to 21. TOP

4. How can I increase the efficiency and life of my home's heating and cooling systems?
The most important thing you can do is clean and replace your filters frequently. Also, a system heats and cools more evenly when the blower is in the "on" position. The blower provides constant air movement throughout the home, and allows for better filtration. Finally, shades, drapes, shutters, or screens should be installed on windows that are exposed to extreme sunlight. TOP

5. Is a system with more capacity better?
No. A larger system with more capacity delivers less comfort and costs more to operate. An air conditioner is at its least efficient when first turning on. A system with too much capacity will run in numerous short cycles, turning on and off repeatedly, therefore causing it to be less efficient. Also keep in mind that an air conditioner only removes humidity when it's running, so a system with shorter run cycles doesn't remove humidity from the air very well. TOP

6. How long should my system run in a cycle?
There is no exact answer for how long your system should run during each cycle. The average air conditioner is sized to remove the heat from your home as fast as it comes in, on a 100° day. Therefore, ideally, on a 100° day the system should be able to keep up with the incoming heat, but not gain on it and be able to turn off. The cooler it is below 100°, the more the system will cycle on and off. TOP

7. Should I try to keep my system from running too much?
Every time your system starts up, it will use a lot of electricity and not produce much cooling. Usually a system that is too small to cool the home is more economical to run but delivers less comfort. Even though it runs nonstop, it will usually consume less power than a larger system that cycles on and off. As a rule of thumb, a unit that is either on or off is less expensive than one cycling on and off. TOP

8. What air temperature should my air conditioner produce?
The air temperature your system produces depends on the temperature of the air going into the system. Generally, the air produced should be 18°-20° below what enters the system. So if the air entering the system is 80°, the air exiting should be about 60°-62°. However, that only works on a system that has been running at least 15 minutes on a warm, dry day with a home that is about 80° inside. On a mild day, with an indoor temperature in the low 70's, or during humid conditions, the air coming out may only be 15°-17° cooler than what enters. TOP

9. What temperature should I set my thermostat?
Obviously the time of year becomes a big factor for desired temperature settings. In the summer months the average temperature setting is 72°-77°, in the winter 68°-75° seems to be the most common setting. Remember, when leaving your house, try to avoid drastic temperature changes. Do not set your temperature back more than 5°; this will cause your unit to work harder to achieve the desired temperature setting. TOP

10. What are the advantages of a programmable thermostat?
Different programmable thermostats offer many different features. However, because they are electronic, they are all more accurate and efficient than thermostats that contain mercury. With programmable thermostats you can control the temperature in your home at different times of day without ever touching your thermostat. Because everything is automatic, you will never forget to change the setting on your own. TOP

11. How often should I replace my filters?
For optimum efficiency and filtration, we recommend that you replace your disposable filters at least once a month. If you have washable filters, they should be cleaned once a month. TOP

12. What maintenance should I do on my air conditioner?
The most important maintenance you can do is to change your filters regularly. Ground mounted outdoor units need to be kept clear of debris, clutter; weeds or landscaping that can grow too close and reduce the airflow to the unit. Also, keep pets away from the unit because pet urine can cause expensive damage. Use caution with a weed trimmer around the unit to prevent damaging control wiring. Any additional maintenance should only be performed by qualified personnel. TOP

13. How often should I have maintenance done on my air conditioner?
You should have maintenance done on your air conditioning system twice a year. This not only ensures maximum efficiency, it enables us to foresee any possible problems that may occur in the near future. Our Comfort Assurance Program (CAP) plan is specifically designed to keep your air conditioning system running at its peak efficiency year-round. TOP

14. Is there anything I should check prior to calling for service?
Yes. Check to be sure that the air handler or furnace is plugged in. Check that the breakers and the disconnects are turned on and be sure the thermostat is set correctly. TOP

15. How much does a new replacement system cost?
Due to the many different makes, models and customer needs, price is an issue that can only be solved by doing a thorough evaluation of your home and existing equipment. There is no charge for an in-house replacement proposal. TOP

16. Are there any air conditioning systems that are safe for the environment?
Yes. Several manufactures have developed new systems that contain the environmentally friendly R410A refrigerant.  In addition to that, newer eqipment is more efficient and therefore takes a smaller toll on our resources. TOP

17. Do electronic air cleaners really work?
Yes, they can actually play a big part in your complete home comfort. We have a variety of whole-house filtration devices. Some electronic air cleaners can even remove dust particles and pollen as small as .10 micron. Visit our products page for more information about the electronic air cleaners we offer. TOP

18. Should I close the registers and doors to areas of the home that I do not use on a regular basis?
No. Closing the registers will decrease the systems' airflow and efficiency. Every system is designed to cool a certain number of square feet. By closing registers and doors in certain rooms, you disrupt the airflow and cause your air conditioning system to work harder to distribute air to other areas of your home. Your system will work harder, to cool less space, making it cycle more and become less efficient. TOP

19. Why are humidifiers used more in heating than cooling?
When cool outdoor air enters a home it tends to dry out as it warms up, which increases the static electricity in the home and causes sinus problems. Adding a humidifier with help to add moisture back into the air and limit sinus problems. In the summer, even with outdoor relative humidity hovering around the single digits, the humidity in your home tends to be around 40%. The average comfort range for relative humidity in a home is from 35 to 45%. TOP

20. During the heating season, my heat pump delivers warm air, but not hot air, and will operate for long periods of time. Is that normal?
Yes, this is normal. A heat pump generally produces air that is 80°, which is considered warm, and will heat the house evenly. However, 80° may feel cool to your hand, which is usually closer to 90°. TOP

21. During the heating season, my heat pump makes a "whooshing" sound and I feel cool air coming from the supply registers. Is that normal?
Yes. During the cold weather months, frost will accumulate on the outdoor coil. This will cause the heat pump to go into a defrost cycle anywhere from 1-10 minutes, depending on the amount of ice on the coil. The system will return to the heating mode once the ice is gone. TOP

22. How do I know if my A/C unit is big enough?
Before purchasing a replacement system you should always make sure your system is sized properly. Our representative will provide a heat load calculation to determine the proper size and make the appropriate recommendation. Remember, bigger is not always better. TOP

2927 Clinton Road
Sedalia, Missouri






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